Ok so I have searched the EP section and haven't found anything on this topic. I installed a turbo setup on my car and I got it tuned, (I am using an F/IC piggy back AEM setup). The engine setup is stock with the original fuel pump. It does have a bigger Radiator and Fans. I know that the radiator and fans have nothing to do with the following, I just wanted any questions cleared up before they are asked.
I have been having an Idle issue that I can not figure out. When my car starts and whether warm or cold the Idle will fluctuate (surge >50 RPM). Sometimes it will idle at 1500 and almost sound like its "sputtering" for lack of a better description. On some occasions the car would idle where it was supposed to (850-900), but as of late it just fluctuates (surges >50 RPM) and/or idles high. I have cleaned the IACV and have checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any. Under load the car does fine. With the exception of while I am driving in any gear if the RPM gets around 2500 or so the car "Bucks", or acts like it is in to high of a gear. Also if I am driving the car at a cruise state (nt cruise control, just foot on the gas) the car will act as though fuel is being shutoff for a second and then supplied again. (its more of an annoyance than anything else)
This morning I started it and was letting it warm up and the car idled differently than it has as of late (somewhere around 1000). A few times it even seemed like it wanted to shut-off. I started to drive to work and the car just wouldn't go. (as if a lack of fuel). as in, push gas pedal, no go...I got it back in the driveway and left for work in my wife's truck. I have even looked at my spark plugs and coils, they appear to be fine. I really don't know what else to look for.
If I missed a previous post on this matter I appologize. If you guys can help me in the matter I would greatly appreciate it.
p.s. if anyone is running a different Intake Manifold setup than the plastic one that comes stock please let me know which one it is. I would like to upgrade.
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Idle Problems
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spdyslvrEX
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Re: Idle Problems
Not sure about on the newer plastic intake manifolds, but it should be the same, take off your charge pipe where it goes into the throttle body, with the car running. There should be two holes in there, one for each of the IACVs. Plug one at time with your fingers, if it does nothing, that IACV is bad.
2) with everything hooked up (charge piping,etc) get a can of carb cleaner and spray it all over the intake manifold, throttle body, etc, with the car running. If there is a leak the carb cleaner will affect the idle.
3) make sure all your vacuum lines are connected and in good condition, sometimes a little crack you can't see in the vac line without fucking with the line, will cause a bad idle.
4) try resetting your ecu if you havent already.
2) with everything hooked up (charge piping,etc) get a can of carb cleaner and spray it all over the intake manifold, throttle body, etc, with the car running. If there is a leak the carb cleaner will affect the idle.
3) make sure all your vacuum lines are connected and in good condition, sometimes a little crack you can't see in the vac line without fucking with the line, will cause a bad idle.
4) try resetting your ecu if you havent already.
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spdyslvrEX
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Re: Idle Problems
Tenchu,
Hey thanks for the info I have tried the IACV test in the past and the car shut down. I have tried the Carb cleaner trick but not sure if I just didn't do it good enough or what, I will try these things again. Thanks again...
Hey thanks for the info I have tried the IACV test in the past and the car shut down. I have tried the Carb cleaner trick but not sure if I just didn't do it good enough or what, I will try these things again. Thanks again...
Re: Idle Problems
bad gas?
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Re: Idle Problems
Well those are the usual issues. I'm still leaning on a vacuum issue if you've tested the previously stated correctly. Though theres really no "easy" way to check for a vacuum leak. Could also be your TPS, bad fuel like Jon stated, could be a lot of things unfortunately.
Edit: What are you running for your map sensor? If you're running a stock map with no sort of by pass or anything with a turbo setup that will create huge idle issues. You may have ruined your map sensor.
Edit: What are you running for your map sensor? If you're running a stock map with no sort of by pass or anything with a turbo setup that will create huge idle issues. You may have ruined your map sensor.
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spdyslvrEX
- Posts: 124
- Joined: June 09, 2005
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Re: Idle Problems
Nah, not bad gas. I have refueled numerous times. I run 93 octane.
Tenchu, I do have a piggyback system for the MAP. (it came with the AEM kit)
OK, I did the tests again yesterday. When I took the charge air piping off there was only one hole for the IACV. There is what appears to be a second small hole on the forward side of the Throttle body, I covered that and nothing happened. Not sure what its for. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/online/par ... 456251.png
Hope I did that link right. If you look at the picture on the opposite side of the throttle controls is that sensor. (no number) There is a small hole on the front side of the throttle body that I covered, and nothing happened. I have disconnected that sensor and the RPM rose to about 2000 RPM. Don't know if it makes a difference or not. While the Charge Air piping was off it sounded like maybe the IACV was trying to work.
After this I used the Carb Cleaner and sprayed all over the top of the intake manifold. I found one of my injectors to have a bad O-ring. I bought a new one (Oring) and put the car back together, It idled at 1200 at first then dropped down to 850-900. It was pretty cold out so that's probably why, it idled so high at first. The idle was a little rough, but not horrible sounded deep and beastly. I can't compare a smoke color b/c it was so cold out. I let it warm up and tested the REV. No sputtering on the incline, which was good. But when it came back down it started doing the Surge thing again. I decided I would take it for a test drive so I drove it around my neighborhood. When I would give it gas, you can hear the air flowing and all of a sudden the fuel kicked in and the car just takes off. I hope this description is good enough. Its the best I can do. Thanks again for the help.
Tenchu, I do have a piggyback system for the MAP. (it came with the AEM kit)
OK, I did the tests again yesterday. When I took the charge air piping off there was only one hole for the IACV. There is what appears to be a second small hole on the forward side of the Throttle body, I covered that and nothing happened. Not sure what its for. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/online/par ... 456251.png
Hope I did that link right. If you look at the picture on the opposite side of the throttle controls is that sensor. (no number) There is a small hole on the front side of the throttle body that I covered, and nothing happened. I have disconnected that sensor and the RPM rose to about 2000 RPM. Don't know if it makes a difference or not. While the Charge Air piping was off it sounded like maybe the IACV was trying to work.
After this I used the Carb Cleaner and sprayed all over the top of the intake manifold. I found one of my injectors to have a bad O-ring. I bought a new one (Oring) and put the car back together, It idled at 1200 at first then dropped down to 850-900. It was pretty cold out so that's probably why, it idled so high at first. The idle was a little rough, but not horrible sounded deep and beastly. I can't compare a smoke color b/c it was so cold out. I let it warm up and tested the REV. No sputtering on the incline, which was good. But when it came back down it started doing the Surge thing again. I decided I would take it for a test drive so I drove it around my neighborhood. When I would give it gas, you can hear the air flowing and all of a sudden the fuel kicked in and the car just takes off. I hope this description is good enough. Its the best I can do. Thanks again for the help.
Re: Idle Problems
I'm kind of confused about your comment about the AEM setup. I understand you have AEM for engine/fuel management, but does it actually replace the map sensor? Or is there something inline/under the MAP sensor? I'm referring to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor, not the ECU map if thats what you're thinking. The map sensor reads vacuum on your car, since you're car is designed to be NA, it freaks out when it reads boost (which is the opposite of vacuum). You've either got to find a way to stop boost from getting to the MAP sensor (check valves, missing link, etc), or run a different map sensor (GM 3Bar, Motorola 2.5Bar, etc) but the 2nd option requires you to be running a true engine management (Hondata, Crome, etc) to be able to tell the car how to manage it. What year/model is your Civic exactly?
As far as the illustration you posted, are you referring to the part under bolt #18? That should be your TPS.
What I was mainly referring to with the carb cleaner was mainly gasket areas. Especially the throttle body (car running, with everything hooked up). I had this same issue on my last Civic and after spending tons of money replacing shit, found it it was a fucking throttle body gasket. I replaced the TPS, IACV, Map Sensor, before I tried this, and found the TP gasket was bad.
I also had a huge issue with my MAP sensor(s) (since I replaced it multiple times before figuring it out) on my first turbo Civic. I was running check valves inline but they weren't enough. I got a missing link and no longer had issues with that.
You're not throwing any CELs correct?
As far as the illustration you posted, are you referring to the part under bolt #18? That should be your TPS.
What I was mainly referring to with the carb cleaner was mainly gasket areas. Especially the throttle body (car running, with everything hooked up). I had this same issue on my last Civic and after spending tons of money replacing shit, found it it was a fucking throttle body gasket. I replaced the TPS, IACV, Map Sensor, before I tried this, and found the TP gasket was bad.
I also had a huge issue with my MAP sensor(s) (since I replaced it multiple times before figuring it out) on my first turbo Civic. I was running check valves inline but they weren't enough. I got a missing link and no longer had issues with that.
You're not throwing any CELs correct?
Re: Idle Problems
His is an '01 Civic Josh. HTH. I've been trying to help him over the phone, but have run out of ideas.
Re: Idle Problems
Okay, so yea the 01 Civic still uses the same style MAP sensor as the older models.
Whens the last time you did a tune up on this car? Air filter? Plugs? Fuel Filter? Those are all cheap parts that need to be changed regularly anyways so it wouldn't hurt to try.
Try and find access to a service manual to locate the EGR valve, get the car to operating temp, then under the hood, find the plunger on the EGR, rev the car manually with the TB, and make sure the plunger opens and closes properly.
Whens the last time you did a tune up on this car? Air filter? Plugs? Fuel Filter? Those are all cheap parts that need to be changed regularly anyways so it wouldn't hurt to try.
Try and find access to a service manual to locate the EGR valve, get the car to operating temp, then under the hood, find the plunger on the EGR, rev the car manually with the TB, and make sure the plunger opens and closes properly.
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spdyslvrEX
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Re: Idle Problems
Yea I am throwing P0505 code (idle Control Malfunction, last time I checked when this problem started). I have a new programmable Fuel pump but have been holding off on installing it b/c i have been told this is not the problem. The Air filter, Spark Plugs are new from the Turbo install. (9000 miles or so). The MAP is a separate device that is wired into the MAP Sensor Assembly. (its one that came with the Turbo Kit). The car has been ran on the DYNO since the install. I can try to replace the TB gasket and the Intake manifold gaskets. Should i go ahead and change the Fuel Pump? I mean I have one just sitting here.